Why is this blog different from all over blogs?

Jews have been in the South for a long time -- a fact that seems to have escaped many New Yorkers who express shock when anyone Jewish speaks with a Southern accent. Indeed, the first Jews settled in south Georgia, where I grew up, in the 1730s. My family was not among them, of course. We made our way down the Eastern Seaboard in the early 20th century on my mother's side and my father joined the group after World War II.

So what does this have to do with lox and biscuits? Southern Jewish cuisine is unique, influenced by traditional Eastern European and Sephardic cooking, African cuisine brought by former slaves and the English, Scottish and Irish food traditions from the groups that primarily settled the area.

At my family's home in a small town in Southeast Georgia, Sunday night supper often consisted of "traditional" Jewish food such as lox, whitefish and herring, boiled potatoes and sour cream accompanied by a pan of buttermilk biscuits, baked by our beloved housekeeper. And, of yes, all of it was accompanied by achingly sweet tea served from a giant metal pitcher.

In this blog, I'm going to write about this food tradition, sharing memories and recipes. If you are interested in Southern Jewish food, please join the discussion.

BTW, Sweet Potato was my nickname from my father when I was very small. My Bubbie and others called me Shana Mammalah. Can you get much more Southern and Jewish than that?

Friday, October 31, 2014

Nothing Scary about Halloween That More Sweets Can't Fix


Growing up in a small Southern town the middle of the last century, ghosts, spirits, haints – the creatures known for prowling on Halloween – were really never that far away. Whether it was the spirit of the dead child at the boarding house, or the otherworldly little girl in white my friends and I saw on a deserted road one evening or even the ghost who lived with the music store owner and her sister, the supernatural was woven into the tapestry of our lives.

No one was very shocked by it.

The music store owner and her sister not only told funny stories about their ghost but actually liked having it around because it regularly found lost items. One afternoon when I was walking to my parent’s store from junior high school, I passed their house and saw through the window a shadowy figure watching soap operas. When I told them about it 10 minutes later – they both were working behind counter at the store – they laughed and laughed and insisted it was a ghost.

None of this was really surprising in a county where one of the few tourist attractions was “the ghost light” viewable down the railroad tracks in a remote area. Generations of scientists tried to find an explanation for it but none came up with anything better than the old tales --  that it was either a woman who had been hit by a train or her long dead husband come looking for her.

Over the years, it was seen by virtually everyone in the county.

As strange as it may seem, I never found Halloween to be particularly scary until I saw the movie “To Kill a Mockingbird,” and realized the possibilities. (Because it was less visual, reading the book had not had the same effect.) In that movie, the scary creatures were very much alive, however.

My theory is that Halloween only surpassed mild scariness when adults took over what had been a child’s holiday somewhere around the 80s or 90s.

To me, the holiday wasn’t about being afraid anyway. It was about food.

Back when the best trick-or-treat loot was homemade, my mother went all out – both caramel and candied apples, translucent amber lollipops and moist cupcakes decorated to look like black cats, witches, pumpkins, whatever came to her mind. It was magical what she could do with strings of licorice, peppermint Lifesavers and striped candy corn triangles.

While no one else did it quite as well as Mama – I’m biased, I know – everyone in our neighborhood was offering freshly prepared treats. Giving out Hershey bars or candy corns was a last resort only for the busiest or most cooking-averse mothers.

Most of the treats we got weren’t wrapped, let alone X-rayed at the local hospital. Any “poisoning” was self-inflected and the result of way too much sugar.

Trick-or-treat night wasn’t the only opportunity to eat too many sweets. Every year, we went to the local Halloween carnival across town. It was usually the first chilly night of the season, and I was wearing the latest iteration of a corduroy coat – often red – over that year’s costume. The air was aromatic with burning leaves and carnival food.

As soon as we got there, I always headed to the same place. It was a great point of pride for me that my mother’s baked goods played such a starring role at the popular cake walk. I loved watching the mobs of carnival-goers compete to take home one of her luscious German chocolate, or spice or lemon-coconut cakes; they were tall and beautiful with swirls of sea foam icing in white or pastels.

For those of you too young to understand, in a cake walk, a group of people bought a ticket for the right to circle chairs to music and quickly sit down when the music stopped. Because a chair was removed after each round, someone invariably was left without a place to sit and would be eliminated The last person sitting won a cake.

My problem was that I really loved the cake walk but considered it unfair – and certainly unnecessary – to compete when one of my mother’s cakes was featured as the prize. That meant sitting out almost half the rounds.

When I finally did win a cake, it was a luscious caramel cake baked by a family friend. As unnecessary as my victory was – the woman was happy to bake the cake for us anytime we asked – I still savored my victory as much as the moist yellow cake with sugary icing.

As if a year’s worth of sugar hadn’t been or wasn’t going to be ingested on trick-or-treat night, the carnival featured cotton candy and more candied apples, occasionally balanced by buttery, salty cones of popcorn. All of this was washed down with apple cider which, drunk after a sugary treat, tasted a bit like a laboratory specimen.

Yet, by the time we climbed in the Pontiac to go home well after dark, I was a content little girl. My parents invariably smelled of some carnival treat – popcorn, burnt sugar or hot dogs – because they had been working in a booth to support a charity backed by the fire department, the Rotary Club, hospital auxiliary or some other group. I would watch their silhouettes from my perch in the middle of the back seat, literally too exhausted and hyped up on sugar to sleep.

We all knew Halloween was a turning point and not just from the oppressive heat of summer to pleasant, crisp days.

The last high school football game usually was played around that time, and Homecoming was long past. It was close to a month before the holiday decorations would be unpacked at the family clothing store. Now, we were focused on the next big event in our household: Thanksgiving.