Why is this blog different from all over blogs?

Jews have been in the South for a long time -- a fact that seems to have escaped many New Yorkers who express shock when anyone Jewish speaks with a Southern accent. Indeed, the first Jews settled in south Georgia, where I grew up, in the 1730s. My family was not among them, of course. We made our way down the Eastern Seaboard in the early 20th century on my mother's side and my father joined the group after World War II.

So what does this have to do with lox and biscuits? Southern Jewish cuisine is unique, influenced by traditional Eastern European and Sephardic cooking, African cuisine brought by former slaves and the English, Scottish and Irish food traditions from the groups that primarily settled the area.

At my family's home in a small town in Southeast Georgia, Sunday night supper often consisted of "traditional" Jewish food such as lox, whitefish and herring, boiled potatoes and sour cream accompanied by a pan of buttermilk biscuits, baked by our beloved housekeeper. And, of yes, all of it was accompanied by achingly sweet tea served from a giant metal pitcher.

In this blog, I'm going to write about this food tradition, sharing memories and recipes. If you are interested in Southern Jewish food, please join the discussion.

BTW, Sweet Potato was my nickname from my father when I was very small. My Bubbie and others called me Shana Mammalah. Can you get much more Southern and Jewish than that?

Friday, September 1, 2017

Heap of Living, Heap of Matzo Balls – Ingredients for a Home


One of my favorite rooms in my childhood home was the cypress-paneled den. It was a small space, with a huge wall of bookshelves and built-in storage on one side and display shelves and more storage on the other. It was tucked into a shady corner of the house and the thick rattan shades didn’t make it any lighter. But it was a cozy place to curl up in the winter or on a rainy day.
I was entranced by the souvenirs, gifts and knick-knacks that crowded closer and closer together on the glass display shelves over the years – a mechanical bear toy that drank Coca-Cola, a plate depicting the Follies Bergere, jewel-toned ashtrays and intricate barware. More than that, being an avid reader from a young age, I spent many an afternoon literally climbing the bookshelves in search of something new and interesting to devour.
One day, when I was about 10, I came across a poetry anthology and read the first verse of this poem, entitled “Home”:
It takes a heap o’ livin’ in a house t’ make it home, 
A heap o’ sun an’ shadder, an’ ye sometimes have t’ roam 
Afore ye really ’preciate the things ye lef’ behind, 
An’ hunger fer ’em somehow, with ’em allus on yer mind. 
It don’t make any differunce how rich ye get t’ be, 
How much yer chairs an’ tables cost, how great yer luxury; 
It ain’t home t’ ye, though it be the palace of a king, 
Until somehow yer soul is sort o’ wrapped round everything. 

What caught my eye originally was that the poem was written in dialect and was difficult to make out. I had no way of knowing at the time that the author, Edgar Albert Guest, was born in England and moved to the United States as a child, penning the poem in 1916 when he was 35. (The dialect appeared to be from Michigan, where Guest grew up, and, when I lived there briefly as a young adult, I was surprised to sometimes hear the same vernacular as the poem.)
For a 10-year-old who had always lived in the same house, the poem was puzzling, and not just because of the language. I read it many times over my childhood, sometimes even reciting it aloud. In my heavy south Georgia accent at the time, I’m sure it was completely unintelligible.
My conclusion was that the poet was saying you had to live somewhere a long time to make it your home, which made sense to my 10-year-old self.
More than 50 years later, I have a slightly different interpretation. It isn’t just how many years you spend in a house but also what you do there and with whom.
That concept is especially poignant for me because, as Rosh Hashanah, the Jewish New Year, approaches, my husband Marc and I are beginning the process of making a home out of a new house – or, at least, a new-to-us house.
We lived in our previous brick Georgian-style house for nearly 20 years. When we moved there at the beginning of 1998, the house had rotting carpet, peach vertical mini-blinds, a treacherous wooden deck and a plethora of bizarre molding and other carpentry added by the do-it-yourselfer former owner. By the time we left it, in July, the house had undergone a complete renovation.
While we began work on that house before we transported a single piece of furniture, we later had some unexpected help with the demolition. Just a few months after we fully moved in, the house was hit by a tornado. Thanks to our dogs at the time, Jack and Hanni, who cried out when the careening barometric pressure hurt their ears, I awakened to recognize the severity of the storm, turned on a radio and heard the tornado warning for Dunwoody. After cajoling Marc to join us in the basement, we safely road out the storm, which created an impressive hole in the side of our house over our bed. The damage estimate was more than $60,000.
We knew we were going to need a new roof but certainly didn’t expect to get it that way. I’ll never forget the screeching noise as the tornado literally pulled the nails out of the shingles.
All in all, we fared better than some of our neighbors, and our house had been repaired by Rosh Hashana, where we entertained guests for lunch the first day. By my estimation, that was the first of more than 100 times we had a full table for holiday meals at the house on Tillingham Court and that doesn’t count the number of times – greater or equal -- we had friends over for lunch or dinner to celebrate Shabbat.
That’s a lot of brisket, chicken and challah.
Many happy times – often religion-oriented – occurred at the old house. We hosted bar- and bat-mitzvah brunches for our wonderful godchildren, the annual Jewish Festival brunch, sometimes feeding nearly 100 friends, and the baby-naming party for our great-niece Goldie. Several times, we were on the “Sukkah Hop” circuit, and the makeshift structure we built for that festival was overflowing with delirious neighborhood children filling up on sweets.
As happens in life, the house also was the setting for more somber occasions, which also part of my memories. Marc and I sat shiva for both of our mothers at that house, and, many of those evenings, our neighbor Isaac Goodfriend, a world-renowned cantor of blessed memory, led the services. The very walls of the house were transformed by his hauntingly beautiful voice.
In recent years, we had the honor of hosting our extended family for Thanksgiving; one year, when our Aunt Doris turned 90, we transformed our garage into a dining area to seat more than 50 relatives for the meal on an usually cold November day. We also had countless birthday parties – including my 50th and 60th – as well as wedding showers and just general celebratory events.
Now, I truly understand what “a heap of living” means.
My mother-in-law used to say that aging isn’t for sissies, and I understand every day how correct she was. Marc and I came to realize we needed to live in a house different from the sprawling “five-four-and-a-door” with the upstairs master suite and the huge backyard.
We had the house on the market about three years ago, but, for various reasons, that never worked out. What to do next was a constant topic of discussion for Marc and me.
That’s why it seemed bashert when, shortly before our 25th wedding anniversary, I received a call from a lovely young woman who attends our synagogue. We had met her a few times at meals at friends’ houses, but I was puzzled as to why she was calling.
She explained that she, her husband and three children were looking to buy a house and had heard we might be interested in selling even though our house wasn’t on the market. We chatted for a few minutes and agreed that they could see the house when we returned from our anniversary trip the next week.
I updated our longtime realtor and then Marc and I headed out to Ponte Vedra beach for a few days. The day we were returning to Atlanta, we noticed a new house had been listed and wondered if we should see it.
We did see it – on May 3, our anniversary – and decided almost immediately to make an offer on the house we ended up buying. The family decided they wanted to purchase our house, so we now live not much more than a mile from our previous location but in a house with a very different configuration and location that works better for us.
The sale of the old house and purchase of the new house might have seemed bashert, but that doesn’t mean it was easy. Perhaps the worst moment came when the fully-loaded moving truck was headed to the new house, and the contractor working here told me he thought the air conditioning might be off. It was, and we ended up moving in 95-degree heat without air-conditioning. (The upshot is that we now have a new HVAC system downstairs.)
Watching the movers lug heavy furniture, sweat pouring off of all of us, the happy times at the old house – and the possibility of good times in the new ones – seemed very far away indeed. Now, with everything put away and a functioning air-conditioning, the future seems more positive and the past has a more satisfying golden glow.
The strange part is that neither Marc nor I were particularly sad about leaving our old house. Life has seasons just like the natural world. Being in the autumn of our lives and with Rosh Hashanah approaching, we are ready for a new phase.
Our new house is somewhat smaller and has a master bedroom on the main floor, instead of upstairs. Our yard is much smaller than the one where our young cousins played football at the Thanksgivings hosted at our previous house and is maintained by the homeowners association.
While the dining room is a bit tight, we discovered a few weeks after moving in that our new house entertains quite well. My sisters, all of our first cousins and our aunt were here for brunch. We have a group photo taken in front of a stand of trees and pictures of Goldie and her brother Avraham at the fountain which is the primary backyard feature.
This weekend, I’m beginning preparations for the holiday meals. I’ve kept the menus from years back, and it is interesting how much – and little – they’ve changed over the years.  Without question, the food was much more kid-friendly when the under-12 set took up one side of our dining room table.
Over the years, I’ve happily offered gluten-free food, vegetarian options and every other accommodation imaginable. This year, one of our dear friends, who has had a Rosh Hashanah meal with us every year for more than 20 years is – thankfully – recovering from throat cancer. I’ll make sure there is extra chicken soup broth and plenty of applesauce made from the fruit grown near our mountain house in Hendersonville, NC.
On Shemini Atzeret, which occurs near the end of the eight-days of Sukkot, we’re serving fish as the main course because, as with many of our friends of a certain age, our aging digestive systems can handle only so much fatty red meat. In our younger days, that holiday was often when I broke out the meat-stuffed cabbage and homemade corned beef.
No doubt it will be disconcerting to do major cooking in a kitchen that is not yet completely familiar to me. Only my readers older than 50 will really understand this, but, even though I put everything away, that is no guarantee I’ll remember where everything is. On the other hand, the pantry we had installed is much better organized than the last one, which might make up some of the time I spend searching for appliances and pots and pans.
What already feels like home is that I’ll be cooking under total Brittany supervision, as hope springs eternal from Betsy and Rusty that I’ll drop something. And, as always, Marc will be available – and good-natured  – to run to the grocery store or farmer’s market at the last minute when I discover I’m missing an ingredient.
It might be a strange conclusion in a blog that is supposed to be about food, but what we put on the table doesn’t matter nearly as much as who is sitting around it and the spiritual longing that brings them together.
As the poem says, it’s about a “heap of living” that makes a house a home. Of course, a heap of matzo balls never hurt anything either.
Happy New Year.








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