Why is this blog different from all over blogs?

Jews have been in the South for a long time -- a fact that seems to have escaped many New Yorkers who express shock when anyone Jewish speaks with a Southern accent. Indeed, the first Jews settled in south Georgia, where I grew up, in the 1730s. My family was not among them, of course. We made our way down the Eastern Seaboard in the early 20th century on my mother's side and my father joined the group after World War II.

So what does this have to do with lox and biscuits? Southern Jewish cuisine is unique, influenced by traditional Eastern European and Sephardic cooking, African cuisine brought by former slaves and the English, Scottish and Irish food traditions from the groups that primarily settled the area.

At my family's home in a small town in Southeast Georgia, Sunday night supper often consisted of "traditional" Jewish food such as lox, whitefish and herring, boiled potatoes and sour cream accompanied by a pan of buttermilk biscuits, baked by our beloved housekeeper. And, of yes, all of it was accompanied by achingly sweet tea served from a giant metal pitcher.

In this blog, I'm going to write about this food tradition, sharing memories and recipes. If you are interested in Southern Jewish food, please join the discussion.

BTW, Sweet Potato was my nickname from my father when I was very small. My Bubbie and others called me Shana Mammalah. Can you get much more Southern and Jewish than that?

Sunday, August 20, 2023

The Dog Days of Summer: Something Is Rotten in Finland

With the scorching days and frequent afternoon thunderstorms, everything in my Brookhaven yard is growing like kudzu, which thankfully I don’t have. The lantana is overtaking the mailbox and the tops of the begonias, which began as tiny clumps of red, are skimming the windows. Still thriving are the beautiful pots planted by my goddaughter Ella in a variety of yellow flowers and greenery as my birthday gift in May.

Apparently, the same is occurring with vegetables. Some delightful friends invited me to lunch and sent me home with a bag of their excess cucumbers. This morning I added tomatoes, onions, garlic peppers and other ingredients to my blender and made a large jug of gazpacho in preparation for the hot week ahead. I tested it for seasoning and was especially delighted by the taste of the fresh cucumbers.

For all of the downsides, the upside of the Dog Days of summer is the profusion of fresh vegetables that lasts in the South well into college football tailgate season.

Among my favorite childhood summer memories is walking outside onto my family’s carport in the mornings and seeing boxes of freshly picked fruit and vegetables dropped off by friends who were sharing their gardens’ abundance. There were tomatoes, squash, zucchini, cucumbers, okra, peppers of every color, corn green beans, field peas and, if we were lucky, watermelon, cantaloupe and other melons.

Some mornings, galvanized tubs filled with fish – still alive and swimming in water – would be sitting on the driveway. Late summer was considered a good time to drain ponds to remediate them. Our benefactors were careful to give us only fish with scales and fins, which identified them as kosher. Catfish didn’t qualify, so they either kept those for themselves or gifted them elsewhere. (Knowledge of what Christians consider the Old Testament was extensive and widespread where I grew up, so it was no surprise that our friends understood some of the laws of kashrut.)

(I’m sure the amazing generosity wasn’t at all affected by the knowledge that my mother would soon reciprocate by dropping off one of her famous homemade cakes, maybe a mile-high chocolate layer cake with fluffy white icing or a cheesecake dripping with fresh blueberry topping.)

All of that fresh food meant an incredible dinner that day because we all knew that everything spoiled quickly during the Dog Days, despite refrigeration. (We had our big meal at midday, which we called dinner, and a light supper, at least partly because of the heat.)

It was a different time, My recollection is that school started closer to Labor Day than it does now and that the second half of summer vacation August had its own rhythm.

Just the other day, my childhood best friend Joyce and I were talking about the Dog Days of Summer. Specifically, we were recalling in one of our regular telephone calls how, when the weather heated up to torrid in our small southeast Georgia town, our main activity nearly every morning was swimming at the pool at the Cracker Williams Recreation Center on the “other side of town.”

The “other side of town” is in quotes because it wasn’t so much of a direction as a place. It required the major and risky activity of “crossing the railroad tracks,” which split our hometown of Jesup in two. That potentially treacherous crossing was something we weren’t allowed to do until we were probably 10 or older. Before that, we could only go if a parent drove us, or we could persuade one of our older siblings – most often my sister Linda – to accompany us because she was meeting her own buddies to swim.

We would go as early in the morning as we could and swim for hours, put our clothes on over our soaking wet bathing suits and get a Tom’s Full Dinner candy bar from the vending machine. Then, reeking of chlorine, we would try to get home – by foot or bicycle – before all of our clothing dried. Otherwise, we would have to contend with the sweltering temperatures that began shooting up by 11 a.m.

I swear I could smell the midday meal as soon as we crossed Third Street next to our house. Potty, our much more than housekeeper, would have made both fried and baked fish if we had some. Otherwise, she would serve fried and broiled chicken or meatloaf or country-fried steak or stew beef, all with three or four or even more vegetables, a plate of sliced tomatoes and usually rice and gravy, mashed potatoes or another starch. (If the meal was non-meat, such as fish, macaroni and cheese and a pan of biscuits usually were on the table with banana pudding for dessert.)

After a feast such as that, I was happy to find a cool spot in the back of the air-conditioned house and read all afternoon, which I was able to do sometimes, at least until it stormed and the AC had to be shut off. Other times, especially when I was older, my parents wanted me to come to help them at their clothing store. Trust me, unless you had to, going outside was to be avoided at all costs. The average temperatures rose well into the 90s and humidity built up until the daily late afternoon or early evening thunderstorm occurred.

Until I was 13, our store was located in an old building that wasn’t air-conditioned but instead had gigantic ceiling fans which did little to moderate the heat. They also stirred up dust from the dirt road on the back side of the L-shaped building, which faced the railroad track and always reeked of soft tar in the summer. (The front was on the main street.) Because of that, at the end of the day, I would help the store clerks cover the tables and racks of clothing with massive protective dropcloths before the fans were turned off. In the morning, the dropcloths had to be removed, shaken outside to remove the dirt and put away until the end of the day.

And it wasn’t just the heat keeping us inside in July and August. We youngsters were constantly admonished about the dangers of the Dog Days – snakes were more likely to bite, dogs could turn rabid in a flash and, of course, heat stroke was always a danger. In addition, it was considered the gospel that any cuts or burns would never heal during that time of year.

This wasn’t some local custom found only in the piney woods of south Georgia, however. The understanding of Dog Days is a worldwide phenomenon with venerable roots. A period of several weeks in the heat of summer is considered sinister in many cultures across the world.

The Old Farmer’s Almanac points out that the ancient Greeks, Egyptians and Romans believed that when Sirius, the dog star, rose in mid-to-late summer, it played a role in the extreme weather of the season. (An interesting tidbit from that article is that name “Sirius” comes from the ancient Greek seírios, meaning “scorching.”)

Based on those sources, the Dog Days technically run from around July 3 to August 11, although others just say they happen in mid-to-late summer.

For the Ancients, the ascent of Sirius suggested that drought, disease, or discomfort were more likely. Virgil, the Roman poet, wrote in the Aeneid that “fiery Sirius, bringer of drought and plague to frail mortals, rises and saddens the sky with sinister light.”

As it turns out, they weren’t the only denizens of the ancient world who had concerns about unfavorable outcomes at the height of summer. So many events occurred from the 17th of Tammuz to the ninth day of Av, that the sad commemoration of Tisha B’av became part of the Jewish calendar. The events primarily remembered are the destruction of the first Temple in 538 BCE and the second Temple around 70 CE. But many other events occurred on the ninth of Av which is a fast day, including the expulsion of Jews from England in 1290 and Spain in 1492. To current times, the three weeks before are considered unfavorable for many activities, with the final nine days having even more restrictions, including against eating meat, drinking wine and getting a haircut -- something I follow.

Guess what time of year Tisha B’av occurs? In 2023, the three weeks began on July 6 (see the dates for Dog Days above) and ended on July 27. Clearly, whatever it is called, historical sources found something menacing about a 3-5 week period at the apex of summer.

Here’s the kicker: At least some of what we believed about the Dog Days has turned out to be true.

A study came out just last month on the topic of snake bites. The research was done in Georgia, and Emory University researchers reported that every degree Celsius of daily temperature increase corresponds with about a 6% increase in snake bites.

A 2009 Finnish study reported, meanwhile, that the risk of deep surgery wound infection during Dog Days is two times higher than at other times.

In Finnish folklore, the time from June 23 to August 23 has been called "rotten month" (another name for Dog Days), and the Finns also have the superstition that wound healing is delayed due to infections. (It turns out that its neighbor, Sweden, has “rötmånad, translated as “rotting month” from around the 22nd of July until 30 days later. )

For me, the three weeks, nine days and Tisha B’av are difficult times where everything seems to go wrong. As soon as the period is over, however, life seems lighter and easier, even though the weather remains brutally hot. A few weeks later, however, the month of Elul follows Av and the atmosphere changes again. The tradition is that the King is in the field beginning on the first day of Elul until the Jewish New Year a month later. The Almighty is closer during that time, and it is an especially favorable opportunity for spiritual growth. Perhaps that is why the miasmic period is weeks shorter in Jewish tradition than others – the calendars are different and the preparation for the New Year intercedes.

I don’t remember feeling any kind of pall on existence in the summers when I was young, but I was going swimming, eating candy bars and having fabulous lunches – so why would I have complained?  I do remember feeling as if everything seemed to slow down at the end of the summer and not pick back up until the anticipation of going back to school began.

As with so much in life, the seasons of the year have peaks and valleys. Even though the new year begins in January on the Western calendar, midsummer often is considered a downtime followed by the anticipation of some type of new beginning as summer ends and fall begins. 


Top of Form

 

I still enjoy delicious fresh fruit and vegetables in summer  – although usually not as fresh or good as what I remember from childhood. In the extremely hot weather in late August, sometimes all I can bear to eat for dinner is a cold soup like gazpacho. My version is based on some classic recipes but offers some options to make it easier.

Easy Gazpacho

2 pounds ripe red tomatoes cut into chunks (I prefer to peel them) or one large can (28oz) of whole tomatoes.

2 medium or three small fresh cucumbers, peeled and seeded or a large English cucumber peeled. Either way, cut them into chunks.

1 small Vidalia onion cut into eighths

1/2 large bell pepper, any color, cut into chunks

1/8 cup olive oil

2 tablespoons red wine vinegar

2 garlic cloves, peeled

1 cup tomato juice, V-8 juice or spicy V-8 juice if you like it bolder

Dash of cayenne pepper

1 tsp of celery salt

½ tsp of cumin

salt & pepper sauce to taste

Process on liquify in a powerful blender until it is a thick soup. Fix seasoning to your liking and chill for several hours or overnight. You can serve with a dollop of sour cream and croutons. You also can add chunks of avocado. If I want it to be more of a meal, I’ll also top it with pieces of kosher fake crab (made from fish). (Obviously, if you don’t keep kosher, you can use real crab or shrimp.)

No comments:

Post a Comment